Joshua McFadden clambered down the steps to the yurt, wearing a bright yellow hat emblazoned with the name of his restaurant, Ava Gene’s. He was wearing Birkenstocks with socks and a checkered shirt. He came all the way from Portland to be here in our little kitchen in Bonny Doon, and we’re so glad he did. As we were almost the last stop on his book tour, he was pretty tired of the road, but he obliged us, and made the salad deftly. checking the recipe in the book he wrote every once in a while. “Did I really only call for half a lemon? Can I get another half?” We watched him make a raw Brussels sprout Caesar salad, his hands moving so fast that it was hard to get a picture of every step as he chopped sprouts, mashed filleted anchovies to a paste, seasoned and salted, at home in the kitchen. He did everything in reverse order that it is described in his cookbook, Six Seasons: A New Way with Vegetables. But the results were amazing nonetheless. We talked about the forest fires burning to the north and south of us, and wild places we love, and the best place to eat in airports around the Pacific Northwest, and whether to take the coast roads or the ridge roads when traveling north from Santa Cruz.
We ate the salad. It was delicious, with an extra squeeze of lemon.
Thanks, Joshua. Come back and see us again soon. We’ll do dessert.
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